Kedarkantha Trek

Today morning we start our trip from Dehradun.  200 Km long drive takes at least 10 hours to reach Sankri, our trek base.  It’s advisable to start latest by 7 am in the morning.

Initially after crossing Mussoorie town the road enters the Yamuna valley and we continue along the river for a while. It gets better after crossing the town of Purola. The car goes up the winding road surrounded by blue pine forest.  From Mori we follow the course of Tons river. You’ll enter Govind National Park after you cross Netwar and after Netwar you will be following the course of the river Supin. The road gets bumpy at times but you won’t feel much because of the astounding beauty of the surroundings. On your way you will experience dense conifer forest, scattered apple orchids, farming fields and open valleys in between.

Sankri may appear comparatively busy in a trekking season than the villages you may have visited interior in the Himalayas. But if you look carefully, you’ll find that most of the people around you are either trekkers or the local support staff.

We will arrange your accommodation in a home stay at Saur village or in a lodge at Sankri. This will be on sharing basis and on the basecamp always expect a dormitory style room.  Saur is actually bigger than Sankri and in the ‘Pahari’ essence too. It is just two minutes’ drive from Sankri. If the sky is clear and you reach Sankri/ Saur before sunset, you can’t miss the vibrant orange and purple hue on beautiful snowcapped ranges of Mt. Swargarohini from here. Over a hot cup of tea, you’ll be discussing the trail with our coordinator/trek guide keeping that beautiful painting into the backdrop.

Today morning after breakfast we start our trek to Juda Tal also referred Juda Ka Talao.  Initially we follow the road which connects Sankri to Taluka for about five minutes. Then we leave the motor able road and turn right to take the trail which leads to Kedarkantha.

The climb for today is throughout of moderate gradient and can be tiring at stretches. The trail starts gaining height among sparse conifers at the beginning.

After following the trail for about an hour on the mountain slope, you will find a cement bridge lying on a small stream. The foot trail splits into two and we take the left one.  The tree line clearly starts to change by then. You’ll see more Maple and Oak trees in the forest. After ascending for another hour or so you’ll cross a huge fallen trunk to reach a glade inside the forest.  Surprisingly a single walnut tree stands tall in the middle. We take a well-deserved rest here. After all we completed halfway to the Juda Ka Talao.

Continue climbing after taking a good rest at the “Fallen Trunk” meadow. Before reaching the last meadow of the day we cross another meadow in between. Both of the meadows share surprisingly same characteristics. Both are covered with lush green carpet of soft grass. If you have any time or energy left, allow yourself to walk a few steps barefoot on it. But certainly not at all if it’s cold and snow covered. These are the small pleasures of life what we city dwellers miss back at home. Both the meadows have shepherd huts nearby.  Hop inside.  Imagine spending a lonely night there sharpening your knife, cooking your own food on a wooden fire and praying all night long that bear doesn’t attack your sheep as does the shepherd. Not really that lonely, huh? Well, you can imagine as many sheep as you want with you!

However, let us take a break from our imagination and let us get back to the trek. We turn right from the last meadow and climb for 15-20 minutes more and we’ll reach our campsite for the day. The total distance is hardly 5 Km but it may take up to 5 hours!

Judatal is a really pretty campsite. Imagine an undulated wavy meadow amidst a dense Maple-Oak forest and at the left corner of the clearing there’s a small lake which remains frozen in most of the winter. So, what do you think? Pretty enough?

There are quite a few stories about Juda Ka Talao. Locals say that this small lake is somehow channelled with a well of Saur villages. Long time ago, a small shepherd boy got drowned in the lake. That little boy loved to play his flute. He carried his flute everywhere he would go. Almost after a week of the tragedy, the flute was discovered from that well in the Saur village. True or not? You be the judge.

Today we trekked only about 5 km but remember that we have climbed three mountains and gained considerable altitude. Today’s trek was not that easy as it appears. After an early dinner we call it a night and get into the cosy comfort of the sleeping bag inside tent.

The trail towards Kedarkantha base is clearly defined across Juda Ka Talab campsite.  After about 5-10 minutes of climb we reach a vantage point on the slope from where you get a full view of the pristine lake and the grassy meadow. Take out your camera for sure! Climb further and you’ll see the trail going straight forward keeping the ridge to your left. Don’t take that trail but wait for your guide here. That route will take you straight to another campsite called Hargaon. You are supposed to climb the ridge to your left. The trail goes inside the Oak, Conifers and Maple. In winter the snowline would have begun by this point.

Continue about an hour of steep climb we reach a spot where stands a solitary shepherd hut.  The ascent gets gentler after this point and we’ll reach today’s destination after maximum one more hour of trekking. Spend few minutes here, enjoy the surroundings.

As said before, after walking another hour you’ll see a vast opening with few desolated shepherd huts. A thrilling view of a 180 degree arc of majestic snow capped Himalayan ranges with significant peaks like Bandarpunch, Swargarohini, Kalanag and Ranglana can be seen from here. Yes, cheer up, we have reached today’s camp site. Now don’t get too carried away with the view. Look left to the arc. You are supposed to start before the break of the dawn next day to reach the top on or before sunrise! We serve the dinner early in the evening, as the last scattered light remains on the horizon.

Get into the tent and pack your light day pack, if you have one. Otherwise keep at least a bottle of water and some dry food/chocolates with you during summit. Tomorrow expect tea to be served by 3 am in the morning.

Today we start as it has been planned. In December/January it will be pretty cold at the onset of the dawn. Wear warm jacket and certainly a windproof on top. A pair of gloves is a must, if not a waterproof one. Take out your torch, a headlamp is always better as it keeps your hands free.

The first hour of the hike takes you through dense Oak/Kharsu forest but as you climb further the forest recedes.  You may come across something quite interesting to attract your attention during the initial walk. You may spot pug marks on snow larger than human. Ha-ha, you haven’t discovered “Big foot” or “Yeti” pug marks but probably of the Himalayan Black Bear. And yes, Govind National Park has quite a number of Himalayan Black Bears in its wild life chart. But unlike their pug marks you have to be really lucky to spot one.

However, after almost an hour of gentle climb you’ll reach a clearing with a shepherd hut from where there are mainly two trails on the way to the top.  Depending on the conditions, especially on snow in winters most of the hiking teams take the left one while climbing and descending the other way.

From here the trail gets steep. After climbing for another half an hour or so, you’ll find yourself above the tree line. The structure of the shrine at the top is clearly visible from here. Usually dawn starts to break by this time.  After this point we climb the steep ridge to the top.  Follow your guide and his footsteps as he takes you to the top through the switchbacks.

The trail can be slushy and icy at stretches in the morning.  We will provide you a pair of Anti Slip Grip/Crampon that help you get a better hold. After hiking another half an hour that way you’ll find yourself right in front of the shrine. Don’t stop there. Take left and climb for five more minutes and you reach the top. Yes, it’s a summit, essentially every peak has one.

Majestic 360 degree view of the Himalayas waits at the summit. In the southerly direction you can see the wide valleys sloping down. A number of high peaks in Gangotri and Yamunotri ranges can be seen towards the north. Your guide will help you to spot the Swargarohini range, Mt. Kalanag/Black peak, Hati parvat, Ranglana and more. Snow capped ranges of Kinnaur forms the backdrop in west. Savour the summit to your heart’s content and head back towards base camp.

Today is the last day of our trekking and it’s all the way down to Sankri. There’s no hurry and we’ll enjoy the morning and then start going down to Sankri.

For the first half an hour we retrace our steps to the Shepherd hut where we took a good rest while reaching the base camp. From here we take a different route through dense Maple-Oak forest to the opening of Hargaon campsite. From the clearing the entire Har Ki Dun river valley is distinctly visible dotted with villages on both the sides of the carving Har Ki Dun nallah.

Another hour of hike will take you to the cement bridge which we crossed on the first day of our trekking. Saur is not far from here. It takes maximum one hour to reach the Saur village from here and another 5 minutes to Sankri. If you have any more energy left, explore around the Saur village or just stroll around Sankri bazaar.  Accommodation will be in lodge/home stay.

If you start by 6:30-7 am in the morning, expect to reach Dehradun by 6 pm latest. The trip ends here, but not the memories!